Sewing the coin pocket

Sewing the coin pocket

Sewing the coin pocket

Fold and press the coin pocket opening

  1. Start by folding and pressing the coin pocket opening. The seam allowance should be around 2 cm (¾”) and the finished double fold about 1 cm (⅜”) inch wide  

  2. Fold the seam allowance twice. It can be helpful to first fold the outer edge, then fold in the inner edge to align with the outer fold. Aim for both folds to be approximately the same width.

  3. Topstitch the pocket opening

  4. Topstitch either one or two rows on the pocket opening. If stitching one row, sew the row just above the lower fold, slightly less than 1 cm in. It’s not necessary to backstitch since the edges will be topstitched, but it adds a little extra security. 

  5. If you choose to sew two rows, carry on sewing both rows as a continuous seam to form a rectangular shape. 

  6. Start by stitching the upper row approximately 3 mm (1/8”) from the edge, using the edges of the presser foot as your guide. 

  7. When you reach the edge, pivot and stitch vertically for about 5 mm, then pivot and stitch the second lower row. Pivot and stitch up towards the first row. Pivot again and overlap the first row a few mm to secure. Use the edge of the presser foot as a guide to maintain an even distance. Overlap the first row a few mm to secure. 

Fold and press the pocket sides

  1. Fold in the side seam allowances of the coin pocket to the inside. Ensure that the seam allowances are even. 

  2. Press from the reverse side, holding the iron in place for a moment to set the folds. Use steam to achieve crisp and sharp edges.

  3. Place the coin pocket on the right-hand shield, ensuring to align the edges with the notches if you are using the free downloadable pattern pieces. Pin it in place to secure.

  4. Next, topstitch the coin pocket. Use topstitching thread in the needle and regular sewing thread in the bobbin. Sew the entire pocket as a continuous seam by following this sequence:

  • Start slightly in from the lower edge, pivot and sew along the outer edge. 

  • Pivot at the top and sew the inner row. 

  • Then turn to sew along the lower edge to close the bottom of the pocket. 

  • Pivot at the corner and sew the outer row, turn again at the top and finish off by stitching the inner row. 

  • Pivot a final time and overlap the lower edge seam using just a few stitches to secure.

Denim Mastery

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Welcome to Denim Mastery

  • Course introduction5

Cutting and pressing denim

  • Introduction to cutting denim
  • Cutting jeans patterns on denim fabric3
  • Pressing denim

Seams and stitching

  • Topstitching settings and techniques3
  • Sewing bartacks
  • Overcasting
  • Sewing order for jeans1

1. Front pockets

  • Introduction to front pockets
  • Front pocket basics
  • Sewing the coin pocket
  • Sewing the pocket shields
  • Sewing the pocket lining
  • Sewing order for front pockets

2a. Zipper fly

  • Introduction to fly closures for jeans
  • Jeans zippers basics
  • Sewing the fly facing and shield
  • Stitching zipper and attaching fly shield
  • Stitching the front crotch
  • Sewing order jeans zipper

2b. Button fly

  • Button fly basics
  • Preparing the shield and placket
  • Stitching the button placket and fly shield
  • Stitching the crotch seam
  • Attaching the buttons

3. Yoke and back crotch

  • Introduction to yoke and back crotch
  • Yoke and back crotch basics
  • Sewing the yoke
  • Sewing the back crotch
  • Sewing order yoke and back crotch

4. Back pockets

  • Introduction to back pockets
  • Back pockets basics
  • Shaping and topstitching back pockets1
  • Placing and attaching back pockets
  • Sewing order back pockets
  • Back Pocket Placement Guide (pdf)

5. Side seams

  • Introduction to side seams
  • Side seams basics
  • Sewing and topstitching the inseam
  • Sewing the outer seams
  • Sewing order for side seams

6. Waistband

  • Introduction to waistbands
  • Waistband basics
  • Topstitching waistband.mp4
  • Waistband sewing.mp4
  • Sewing order for waistband
  • Drafting a curved waistband

7. Belt loops

  • Introduction to belt loops
  • Belt loops basics
  • Bias tape maker belt loops
  • Twin-needle belt loops (with tape maker)
  • Coverstitch belt loops (with tape maker)
  • Belt loops with a serger
  • Belt loops attached inside the waistband (Method 1)
  • Attaching belt loops over waistband (Method 2)
  • Sewing order for belt loops

8. Buttons and buttonholes

  • Introduction to buttonholes and buttons
  • Buttonholes basics
  • Sewing buttonholes
  • Sewing order for buttonholes
  • Buttons

9. Rivets

  • Introduction to rivets
  • Rivets basics
  • Attaching rivets

10. Hemming

  • Introduction to hemming
  • Hemming basics
  • Sewing the hem
  • Sewing order for hems

The Jeans Tool Kit

  • Introduction to the Jeans Tool Kit
  • Front pocket pattern adjustments
  • Fly patterns adjustments
  • Back pocket patterns
  • Jeans Pattern Tool Kit: Instructions (pdf)
  • Jeans Pattern Tool Kit: Patterns (pdf)
  • Back Pocket Toptstitching Designs (pdf)

Bonus: Time-Saving Tips For Sewing Jeans

  • How to sew jeans faster
  • Sewing jeans batch cheat-sheet (pdf)

Final words

  • Thank you for taking this course